The newest combatant in Berlin’s celebrity restaurant war, this Italian eatery is owned by the same folks who run Borchardt. Elaborately inlaid tile floors, brocade banquettes and flattering lighting make the ambiance work, while classico and moderno menus are both intriguing and subtle.

The moderno features quite a bit of coffee and other modish flavorings, but a ricotta and salsiccia ravioli is tender and deeply satisfying. As you head into the main courses, the steaks are a dependable choice, but a tender veal chop prepared with sea salt and olive oil wins out. The seasonally-available white Alba truffles enliven the simplest of dishes in true northern Italian style. The wine list is heavy on Italian bottles, making San Nicci a fine spot to rejuvenate taste buds worn out by heavy German cuisine.