Ixthys

Two Korean widows run this humble 16-seat eatery, which resides right across from a leafy park with a church—highly appropriate, one soon discovers, as the establishment is decked out in serious religious tones. With excerpts from the Bible writ large on the walls, more religious prophecies than edible items listed in the laminated menus, one thing is clear: these ladies take Jesus more seriously than their food.

Whatever. We were so overjoyed at the authenticity of the dishes to notice: steaming yuk gae jang, a spicy beef broth soup, arrives potent with vegetables and shreds of meat; dolsot bibimbop, rice topped with seven different pickled vegetables, meat and a glossy egg, crackles and continues to cook in a hot stone bowl as it’s eaten; the chunks of soy-marinated bulgogi dish are perhaps a bit too heavy in the sesame oil but still smothers the tongue in a sweet aftertaste.

There are only a few things on the sparse menu—mostly ramen noodles, beef dishes and stews, plus Korea’s must-have staple, kimchi (spicy pickled cabbage). The decoration is weak. But still: sincere service and genuine ingredients at Ixthys outshine any formulaic Buddha-and-paper-lanterns Asian eatery en vouge these days. No wonder, as our friend put it on a recent visit, a “kimchigasm” was in order, though this was quietly said only after leaving the establishment—somehow, we don’t think the owners would approve.